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I can’t deem my project ‘finished’ until its been blocked. There’s something about how water brings out the best definition in stitches, that once you’ve gone Block, you won’t go back!
This is a guide on how to Wet Block. There are many different ways of blocking, however I believe this one to be the easiest and the one least likely to damage your fibrous goodness!
Wet blocking is a variation on washing your knits (sort of) so check out this post on the Do’s and Don’t’s before you get stuck into blocking. If you just want the step-by-step guide on how to block once you’ve got all your supplies, then read this post.
What the block is “blocking” anyway?
If you follow me on Instagram then you’ll quite often see me posting my blocking technique on my stories. “But what is blocking?” I hear you ask. So far you’ve only seen pictures of wet yarn and things pinned to mats.
Well, “Blocking” is the magic that aids in the process of stretching and shaping a finished piece to ensure it is the proper size and shape.
Blocking can be used to finish any item and even out stitches – it can fix a multitude of sins, especially if your tension has gone a bit skew-iff as you’ve ploughed on through your project into the dead of night. I block items either when they’re finished, or they are made up of multiple pieces that need to be the same size (such as granny square blankets where each square should be the same size).
What can I block?
Anything. But realistically, amigurumi doesn’t need blocking. Anything that needs to be ‘shaped’ usually benefits most from blocking. Straightening out straight edges, “opening up” lacey textures- that kind of thing. But really, anything your heart desires.
Important: Have you read my Do’s and Don’ts post yet? There’s a reason I’m only going through wet blocking right now, and that is because a lot of knitters/crocheters are still fond of using acrylic yarn and acrylics are sensitive to heat. If you try any kind of heat-based blocking, chances are you’ll melt or deform the yarn- and with that, your finished handiwork too! Always follow the care instructions on your yarn label!
Still using acrylic? Read why I’m making a change here.
Blocking is a life-saver when it comes to the following:
- Uneven tension (knitters are more prone to changing tension as their hands get tired or they’ve picked up a project that’s been in hibernation)
- Garment size is a *little* tight (wool and cotton especially, stretch quite a bit when wet!) but it cannot generally make an item smaller (you have been warned!)
- Gives stitches more definition and enhances the look of lace or textured stitches so that your FO looks mighty profesh.
- Flattens areas where work has curled.
Blocking Prep – What to do beforehand
- Make sure your ends are all sewn in. Blocking actually helps to keep ends nicely tucked in once they’re sewn, and they’re a pain to sew in after blocking.
- Always check the care instructions on your yarn label to make sure the type of blocking you’ve chosen is a good fit (i.e. don’t heat block acrylic!)
- Check the gauge of your finished piece vs. the gauge given in the pattern. This is why swatching first is best, but if you’ve skipped that step, make sure you’re not about to undo all your hardwork by over-manipulating it while wet!
Blocking Supplies: What You Will Need.
In all honesty, you don’t need anything to start your foray into blocking. It can be achieved using what you have at home already. I’ll give you a list below if you *really* want to get some mats and pins, but for the most part a towel (or mattress) and some pins will do. Oh, and of course some wool wash. I use Soak.
When I first started blocking, I pinned my items to the rug in my living room. I lay them out flat while dry, pinned them in place, stretched them into shape, and then sprayed them with a water/wool-wash mix. This is what is known as ‘spray blocking’ and that’s literally all there is to it!
For larger pieces, some crafters opt for pinning their projects to mattresses. I’ve even pinned mine to a yoga mat before and left it outside.
The point is, your getting your item wet. That’s the worst of it. Obviously, no one wants a soggy mattress which is why some opt for spraying items with water rather than drenching them as is the more ‘traditional’ wet blocking style. There is *no* difference between the finished effects of spray vs. wet blocking, as both involve getting the fibres wet. It’s just how wet, and the fact that wet blocking tends to double up as an actual ‘wash’ and your FO’s come out cleaner than if you just sprayed.
So as the wet FO dries, it is held down into the shape you want it using pins. Now, you want rust-proof pins here as water + metal = rust, and no one wants orange track marks on their projects. I used to use normal sewing pins, but have since upgraded to these amazing blocking pins by KnitPro and honestly wouldn’t be without them now. For a regular blocker like me, they are perfect. But if the pricetag dissuades you, then normal pins are absolutely fine!
Okay now, let’s talk mats. As I’ve said, you can pretty much pin your work to *any* surface so long as you don’t mind it getting wet, and one that your pins are okay to press into. Children’s playmats work great for this and can easily be broken down into smaller pieces and stored until your next blocking adventure.
If you’re doing something fiddly like socks, mittens, or anything lacey, you might want to opt for more specialist blockers – like specially shaped sock blockers, or lace pins.
The final material you will need for Wet Blocking is a wool wash. I use Soak and you can follow the instructions for how I use Soak, or any other wool wash here. Follow these steps for wet blocking your makes!
Want to use something other than Soak? Here are some more of my favourites:
PS- just because it says “wool” in the name, doesn’t mean it can’t be used on other fibres!
Scroll down this post to find the step-by-step directions on how to wet block your items!
If you have any questions about the blocking process, feel free to comment in the sections below, especially if there’s anything I’ve missed. While I am by no means a blocking ‘purist’, I definitely don’t skip this step when finishing up garments!
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